![]() ![]() Protected by the massive wall of the rocky Sierra de Cantabria, the vineyards encircle the River Ebro in northeastern Spain. La Rioja is Spain’s most diverse and beautiful province. Geography and terroir Autumn's tapestry unfolds in La Rioja's vineyards – continue to regard each other with mutual suspicion. Artisan producers like Benjamin Romeo and the multi-regional blenders – Marques de Caceres, Faustino, etc. That was not the case 40 years ago, nor does everyone necessarily welcome this development. But it is undoubtedly true that the functions of growing and bottling are increasingly combined. It is simply a matter of individual choice. Is one approach to winemaking innately superior? No. ![]() Often matured for fewer than 16 months in French barrique, the result is a concentrated and powerful wine. These exceptional raw materials are then macerated for a long time, extracting a great deal of color, extract, and tannin. As a result, Rioja witnessed a revolution in winemaking techniques, with grapes sourced from estate vineyards, rather than being purchased from growers across the wider region. Their argument was simple: extensive oak maturation subjugates the fruit and provides no sense of place. Yet there was a significant pushback in the late-20th century as younger winemakers sought a different path. This method of classifying wines has stood the test of time. It is their lightness of structure and silky texture that so many oenophiles find irresistible. There are plenty of consumers today who remain steadfastly loyal to this age-old wine style. This red and white Rioja interpretation can be sublime: elegant, soft, and unbelievably complex. Moreover, many bodegas still market their wines according to the time they spend in barrel, with Joven, Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva priced in ascending order. Thus, their wines are aged for many years (over five for Gran Reservas) in old American oak. They conform to a paradigm that considers blending and maturation far more important than terroir. On one side of the divide are staunch traditionalists like Lopez de Heredia. Winemaking and regional classifications Rioja Alta Gran Reservaĭebating the subject of ‘classical versus contemporary’ winemaking in Rioja is analogous to throwing a rock at a hornet’s nest. But this spectacular region’s internal variety, traditions, and adaptability have kept it in the front rank. In the 20th century, Rioja had the Spanish, fine wine market to itself. The quality of Rioja Blancos (whites) has also soared recently. ![]() Yet long-aged Reservas – and Gran Reservas – are still astonishingly popular with oenophiles, not least because they offer such tremendous value – a complex and velvety red that is not released (unlike Bordeaux) until the wine is ready. Their high scores and growing popularity suggest this isn’t simply a flash in the pan. Indeed, plenty of single-site cuvées and groundbreaking wines are made in the appellation today. However, that does not mean tradition is moribund in the hills of Rioja. This state of affairs is now simply intolerable from the perspective of younger winemakers. ![]() Indeed, few great wine regions span so many terroirs, and yet, historically, Rioja marketed a single, overarching wine style: silky reds aged in wood for many years. Its historic winemaking culture has been called into question – the debate surrounding the value of blending versus terroir began here – while growers in Rioja Alavesa have toyed with the idea of creating a new, breakaway appellation in the Basque Country. Spain’s premier fine wine region is in a state of flux. EXPLORE ALL OUR GUIDES: SPANISH WINE REGIONS ![]()
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